Our Great Coastal Adventure: Kenya & Tanzania by Road

Hey everyone! Buckle up, because you're about to join us on an unforgettable road trip down the coasts of Kenya and Tanzania. We're a crew of adventurous friends who decided to swap stories for real-life exploration, and this year, the coastline was calling our names!

“To travel is to live.”

Hans Christian Andersen

Now, a little backstory: last year, we tackled Lake Victoria, and let's just say planning to cross borders with our trusty vehicle was a bit of a saga. That hiccup planted the seed for this coastal dream. We weren't sure if the car would make it smoothly across borders again, so we tentatively sketched out this coastal plan. Lo and behold, the car gods smiled on us this time, making last year's border woes a distant memory and paving the way for this year's grand expedition!

Our mission? To soak up the magic of Kenya and Tanzania's coastal towns, tracing a path from the northern shores of Kenya, down to its southernmost tip, then venturing into Tanzania – Dar es Salaam, the spice island of Zanzibar, and finally looping back to Nairobi. I won't bore you with the nitty-gritty planning details here, but let's dive straight into the adventure!

Day 1: Nairobi to Watamu – The Journey Begins!

Our adventure started bright and early: Nairobi to Watamu, a good 559 kilometres. We were chasing the sunset, hoping to arrive in Watamu with enough daylight to witness its famous golden hour before diving into the nightlife. Yours truly was determined not to repeat a past travel sin of oversleeping and delaying everyone, so I was awake the previous night. We set off from Nairobi city around 6:30 AM.

The drive itself was an experience. Our first pitstop was Emali for a much-needed breakfast, then we pushed on through Voi and Mariakani. The landscape transformed before our eyes, with majestic Baobab trees dotting the scenery. As we neared the coast, the vibe shifted, too. It was impossible not to notice the stark contrast in living conditions compared to Nairobi, a poignant reminder of the diverse realities within the country. Stories of local challenges, like young people falling into drug abuse, painted a sobering picture.

Nairobi To Watamu

On a lighter note, somewhere along the way, we bumped into the "Honda Fit Nation" crew on their road trip to Malindi for an Easter event! One of our group knew someone, so we pulled over for a chat. They even tipped us off about an upcoming "Paparemo" event, marking the end of the busy season – a nightlife pinnacle we were now buzzing to experience!

We rolled into Watamu around 5:12 PM, just as planned. After a swift check-in and securing our rooms, we made a beeline for the beach. The sunset did not disappoint! Dinner followed, and since we were eager to explore, we didn't bother changing. A quick freshen-up back at the hotel, and we were ready for Watamu's nightlife. We found a lively club, and it was… an experience. One observation, though, was the visible presence of prostitution, a common reality in some tourist spots, with men and women navigating complex social dynamics on the dance floor. After soaking in the atmosphere, we headed back to crash, marking the end of an eventful first day.

Day 2: Watamu Wonders – Marine Parks, Creeks, and Creatures!

Day two in Watamu was all about exploration! After breakfast, our first stop was the Watamu Marine Park. We hopped on a boat, cruising around, marvelling at the coastal features. Next up was the Mida Creek excursion – a stunning waterway snaking inland. Then, the highlight: snorkelling! The KWS operators officially discourage feeding the fish, but let's just say our guides knew how to attract a crowd (of fish, that is!) for an up-close experience. While it was fun, we had a feeling Zanzibar might offer something even more spectacular.

Back on shore, we spotted some fishermen with an impressively huge catch! Feeling energised, we even had an impromptu sand race. It was hilariously chaotic; running on soft sand makes you sink, and the faster you try to go, the deeper you dig in! Only one person managed to stay upright and claim victory.

Later, we made our way to the Watamu Snake Park. We arrived a bit late but still got a fascinating tour of the reptiles – tortoises, turtles, and a variety of snakes. Some of us were brave enough to hold a snake and a turtle! It was cool to learn about the different species, especially the puff adders common to the region, and debunk a few myths.

By then, we were starving, so it was time for a late lunch that pretty much doubled as supper. We returned to our apartment hotel, freshened up, had a little "pregame," and then headed out to the legendary Papa Remo Beach. Papa Remo has this quirky vibe: people enjoy an elegant dinner, and then, as if by magic, the tables clear, the DJ fires up the decks, and the beach transforms into an open-air club! You're dancing on the sand. We made some incredible memories that night – one of the finest party experiences of the whole trip. As they say, some stories are best left on the dance floor!

Day 3: Watamu to Diani – South Coast Calling!

After a night of revelry, we eventually made it back to our beds. The next morning, it was time to journey from Watamu to Diani on the South Coast. This was a relatively short hop. We woke up, packed, checked out, and hit the road.

Our first stop was Charchoma. Honestly, it wasn't quite what we expected; the wind was whipping sand everywhere, making it a bit uncomfortable. So, after a brief stay, we continued our journey to Diani.

Upon arrival, we checked into our hotel. We'd set our hearts on dinner at the famous Cave Restaurant (it's literally in a cave!), but alas, our spontaneity bit us – you need bookings to allow them to plan their meals! Lesson learned. So, we found a lovely alternative spot for dinner. We decided against a big night out, as an early start awaited us for a dolphin excursion in Kisite Mpunguti.

Day 4: Diani Dolphins, Kisite Mpunguti, and Tanga Bound!

Morning arrived, and we were ready for Kisite Mpunguti! Well, almost. A slight delay as some of our crew needed to hit an ATM meant we reached Wasini (the departure point for the excursion) around 9:00 AM, a tad later than our planned 8:30 AM. We'd found this trip through TikTok, and soon we were joining a large boat filled with people of all nationalities, all eager to see dolphins.

The Wasini excursion involved cruising to where the dolphins hang out. Then, it was off to a snorkelling spot teeming with fish. I managed to get some cool underwater shots! While the dolphin sighting here was good, let's just say Zanzibar had an even more breathtaking surprise in store for us later. After the marine adventure, we enjoyed a delicious seafood lunch, which was included in the price. The boat ride back was lively, with dancing and birthday songs for one of our own, Michael Kimani (who got the traditional dousing of water!).

Back on dry land, we changed and headed for the Lunga Lunga border. A small snag: we'd forgotten to print some documents, so there was a bit of extra "processing fee" involved. We also sorted out new Tanzanian SIM cards and data, then set our sights on Tanga, our stop for the night.

Once in Tanga, we checked into our hotel and ventured out for dinner at a local barbecue café. Tanga, thankfully, had a bit more evening buzz than some other spots, so we managed to track down a cake to celebrate Mike's birthday properly back at our place. A sweet end to a packed day!

Day 5: Tanga to Dar es Salaam – Big City Vibes!

The next leg: Tanga to Dar es Salaam. After breakfast (featuring some tasty mahamris!) and checking out of our hotel (not hospital, thankfully!), we hit the road. It was quite a journey! As we approached Dar es Salaam, its sheer size became apparent – it's geographically larger than Nairobi!

We found our hotel, settled in, and then headed out for a unique experience: a beer brewing tour at "Crafty Dees." It's a cool spot that sells craft beer, and they walk you through the entire process, from malt to the final brew. Educational and refreshing!

For dinner, we explored the multicultural area where we were staying. It was a melting pot of Indian, Syrian, and Swahili influences, so everyone found something to tantalise their taste buds. Our quest for Dar nightlife, however, hit a snag – turns out, most clubs only come alive from Thursday to Sunday. So, it was an early night for us.

Day 6: Dar es Salaam Delights – Museums, Malls, and Music!

Our day in Dar began with a practical mission: the mall. Withdrawing cash came with a surprisingly steep fee (around a thousand Kenyan shillings!), a stark reminder that cash is king in many places, as VISA facilities aren't always available. Some folks bought kanzus, others hunted for jewellery – especially the elusive Tanzanite, a beautiful gemstone mined in Tanzania, which unfortunately we didn't find.

After our retail therapy, we immersed ourselves in culture at the National Museum of the House of Culture. Lunch was at Coco Beach, a vibrant spot with various eateries. We just picked one and enjoyed the seaside atmosphere.

Later, somewhat randomly, we ended up at LC Waikiki. Not sure how that happened, as it wasn't on the itinerary, but hey, there was a sale, so some good deals were snagged!

We freshened up back at the hotel and then set out for dinner. A waiter in Tanga had raved about "Samaki Samaki," and boy, did it deliver! We went for dinner and ended up staying for an unforgettable night. It was a Wednesday, which meant karaoke night! Early birds got shots and nuts (yes, shots!), and then the singing commenced. After the karaoke winners were crowned, the club truly came alive. The DJ was phenomenal, leagues above what we were used to, igniting the place with an infectious energy. It was a lifetime experience!

Earlier that day, we'd also visited the historic St. Joseph Cathedral and booked our ferry tickets to Zanzibar for the following day.

Day 7: Ferry to Zanzibar – Spice and Serendipity!

An early start! We parked the car at my brother's place and took an Uber to the ferry terminal. We boarded the Zan Fast Ferries – about a $30 ticket per person for the 1-hour and 20-minute journey to the mystical island of Zanzibar. It's a much longer ferry ride than anything we have in Kenya, even the Mwanza one! We travelled light.

Arriving in Zanzibar, we were incredibly fortunate to meet Adam, a driver who also turned out to be an amazing impromptu tour guide. But first, a new policy: mandatory travel insurance, about $22 per person, just for health coverage to enter Zanzibar.

Adam was a lifesaver. We told him our general plans, and he helped map things out. On that first day, still finding our feet, we asked him to take us to our accommodation. En route, he gave us a mini-tour of Stone Town, pointing out the famous Forodhani Gardens (surprisingly quiet during the day) and the Freddie Mercury Museum, housed in a building where he spent some of his youth.

As we drove north towards Nungwi Beach, our intended destination, Adam suggested a detour to a spice farm. Our senses were treated to an aromatic tour! We got to see, smell, and learn how various spices are grown – vanilla, cloves, cinnamon, you name it – and of course, picked up a few treasures.

A slight hiccup: our booked hotel was on the eastern side of Zanzibar, but Nungwi was our northern star. Luckily, Adam, our hero, had a friend with available houses in Nungwi. We quickly sorted out accommodation for our two nights and paid Adam. He then showed us a great local spot in Nungwi for supper.

Adam generously offered to be our guide for the next couple of days. His rate was based on driving us and showing us the authentic spots, rather than typical guiding fees. He genuinely wanted us to leave with glowing reviews of Zanzibar, not just to profit from us. What a gem!

Day 8: Zanzibar's Marine Magic & Nungwi Evenings

Adam picked us up from Nungwi (he'd come from Stone Town!) for a day of aquatic adventures. Our mission: dolphins and snorkelling! It was a bit cloudy, and it did rain later, but nothing could dampen our spirits. We headed out, and folks, this was THE dolphin experience – jaw-dropping! Far beyond what we'd seen in Kenya. We even swam with them, an underwater ballet I won't soon forget. The snorkelling was equally incredible; the water was crystal clear, teeming with vibrant fish. (Regrettably, no underwater photos from this one, but trust me, it was top-notch!)

We then visited a stunning sandbar, a patch of pristine sand in the middle of the ocean that, depending on the tide, creates natural swimming pools. We also caught a glimpse of Minemba Island, famously leased by Bill Gates at one point. This whole experience was truly exceptional.

After a well-deserved lunch, we went to swim with turtles at a local aquarium. You can get in the water with them and even pet them! Some of us were a tad nervous about potential turtle nips, but it was an incredible chance to get close to these gentle giants. A must-do in Zanzibar!

Our day continued at Kendwa Rocks beach, where some of us braved the jet skis (or personal watercraft, if you prefer!). We capped it off with a spirited game of beach football. Beach football, by the way, is a whole different beast – passing requires serious oomph on that uneven sand to ensure the ball reaches your teammate!

After supper, Adam drove us back. We skipped the Zanzibar nightlife as our ferry back to the mainland was an early one – 7 AM, meaning we had to be at the port by 6:00 or 6:15 AM.

Day 9: Zanzibar to Moshi – The Long Haul & a Key Crisis!

No breakfast, just a quick prep, and Adam was there to take us to the port. We bid him a heartfelt farewell and boarded the ferry, making the 1 hour 20-minute journey back to Dar es Salaam.

We collected our car and embarked on what was probably the longest driving leg of the trip: Dar es Salaam to Moshi. We fueled up on snacks along the way. Upon reaching Moshi, we checked into our Airbnb, grabbed supper, and called it a night. We were utterly exhausted. Even a sudden downpour during our walk back to the hotel, forcing us to make a run for it, couldn't keep us from crashing into bed after a quick shower.

The next morning, we were slated for the "Materuni Experience" – a trip to the Materuni waterfalls near Mount Kilimanjaro, followed by a coffee brewing demonstration. We drove our car to a village near the start of the experience. The waterfalls were stunning, and the water was freezing cold, but invigorating!

Then, disaster struck. Or, well, a major inconvenience: we lost the car key – a push-to-start key, no less! Panic stations! We searched around the waterfall area, but to no avail. Rain started to fall, forcing us to retreat.

Day 10: Materuni Experience!

Back at our base, we decided one of us needed to go to Moshi town to find a mechanic who could open the car and hopefully sort out the key. The first mechanic we found assured us he could handle it. He managed to open the car (by manoeuvring through the window to hit the master lock – halfway there!), but starting the engine was beyond his capabilities. We needed a specialist who could fabricate or reprogram keys.

Feeling uneasy about leaving the car, two of our members decided to head to Arusha for the night, to the place we were originally supposed to stay. From there, they'd search for a suitable mechanic in the morning and bring them back.

Meanwhile, the three of us remaining in the village had quite an experience. The area had a lot of local brewing businesses, and consequently, quite a few intoxicated individuals around. However, amidst the chaos, a wonderfully kind local woman took us under her wing, offering food and ensuring we were okay through the night. Humanity shines in unexpected places.

Day 11: Moshi to Arusha, Border, and the Final Stretch to Nairobi!

The next day, after breakfast in town for us, the Arusha contingent returned around 2-3 PM with a mechanic who was a true key whisperer! He managed to clone the key fob and get the engine roaring back to life. The relief was immense, even if the cost was... significant. But hey, some problems just need money thrown at them to get you home!

Our carefully laid plans for Arusha were now completely out the window due to the key drama. We decided to head straight there, making a quick pitstop at KFC as everyone was famished. Some also dashed into a supermarket for last-minute supplies. Then, it was on to the Namanga border, driving through the night.

We arrived at the border around 11 PM. Processing went smoothly, though we were a day late on our vehicle's temporary import permit, so we had to pay an extra day's fee. Fortunately, the payment office was closing at midnight, and we managed to settle everything by 11:55 PM – talk about cutting it fine!

Once cleared, we drove back towards Nairobi. The roads were clear. During the night drive through Kajiado, we noticed clouds of smoke from some factories, a stark visual of air pollution.

Finally, in the early hours of the morning, around 3 or 4 AM, we started dropping everyone off. I reached my place, exhausted but exhilarated, and collapsed into bed. Waking up the next morning, I was finally, truly home.

Reflections on an Epic Journey

This trip was incredibly beautiful, filled with highs, lows, and unexpected turns. But every moment, every challenge, became part of the rich tapestry of our experience.

A few random takeaways:

• Kisite Mpunguti is indeed the southernmost point in Kenya, and it was amazing to see the coastal features like caves and channels carved by the ocean.
• Zanzibar, an archipelago, primarily consists of Unguja (where most people stay and Stone Town is located) and Pemba.
• Border processing, despite our little hiccups, felt relatively easier than our past experiences.
• We became connoisseurs of East African sodas! Tanzanian Coca-Cola, we noted, seems to have less sugar than its Kenyan counterpart. And they still have Fanta Passion, Pineapple, and Citron – flavours we miss in Kenya!
• Dar es Salaam boasts a beautiful bridge connecting two parts of the mainland.
• At the museum, we saw old currency from the era of explorers who were "founding" Zanzibar and Tanzania, plus exhibits on old ships.
• Stone Town's architecture is fascinating, built primarily from stone and mud rather than bricks.
• One unexpected highlight: seeing a shark up close (and even holding it!) – a fisherman had just caught it that morning. A unique encounter!

It was a journey of a thousand miles, packed with a million memories. And as they say, the journey itself is the destination. Thanks for coming along for the ride!